After a decade and a half in South America and having traveled extensively in Chile I had still not managed to visit the driest place on the planet, the Atacama Desert. With the Dakar Rally crossing Atacama and entering Peru for the first time Malka and I decided to try to see parts of this spectacular endurance race and combine it with a road trip and holiday in the tourism capital of the Atacama region, San Pedro de Atacama.
It’s a 4 day drive from Cusco in Peru to San Pedro in Chile, more or less 2200 KM, and after the first day to Arequipa, it is all in the desert. Many would say driving days through sand is boring and yes there are parts that are a bit dull, but generally it is a spectacular, barren and at times surreal landscape plus the coastal sections in both Peru and Chile are quite beautiful. You could shorten the trip going via Bolivia rather than down to Tacna and Iquique but we know from experience that the rainy season in the high Andes plus the more than slightly volatile nature of Bolivia make that route more prone to incident.
San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro itself is delightful, a true oasis in the middle of the vast desert. As this small town is located at over 2400 meters above sea level the temperature is not excessive and indeed the evenings can be quite cool. Melt from the range of nearby volcanoes provide water to the town and the quantity of vegetation surprises many, including us!

Really the Middle of Nowhere!
The narrow streets are mainly dirt and small traditional houses line them, hundreds of tourists wander these streets and the atmosphere is very relaxed. The view of the volcanoes is truly fantastic, they feel very close to this small town and if you have an expensive camera (which we haven’t as you can see from our efforts) then you could get some picture postcard shots.
We spent a few days enjoying visits to the geysers, salt lakes (extremely buoyant), thermal springs and lunar landscapes. Three days here is ideal we feel, you have time everything with no rushing, and then in the evening wander around and enjoy several good restaurants and bars.

The Beautiful Laguna Cejar
There is quite a large range of places to stay, none are really cheap as you are in Chile of course and 70 or 80 USD a night is probably as low as you should go if you want a decent level of comfort, and you can pay hundreds per night for lovely high end places such as Tierra Atacama, Awasi or Explora. The higher end places are equipped with swimming pools and spas if the feel like spoiling yourself while here, providing you have the budget of course.
18 Holes With No Grass
I like to hack my way round a golf course when I can and I thought it would be fun to play in the desert. Chile has several courses along its northern coast which are open to the general public and I chose the Quinteros course near to Iquique. Not a single blade of grass on the whole course, a very weird concept! Tees are raised and covered in Astroturf, fairways are marked with lighter sand borders and if you hit them you carry a small Astroturf mat which you place your ball on for every subsequent shot. Miss the fairway and you have to play from where it lands. This course had areas of water (marked with stones painted blue) trees (stones painted green) and bunkers (yes I know, the whole course is a bunker really!). The greens are “blacks”, fine sand treated with old engine oil, they run more or less true.

Golf Course With No Grass
A great experience and almost impossible to lose your ball, I managed it though as some local kids ran off with one after a decent shot, not sure of the penalty for that!
Dakar Rally
We managed to see a section of this incredible rally on the road between Arequipa and Nazca on its first visit to Peru. We missed most of the cars and motorbikes as they were far too fast but we caught up with a lot of the trucks and support vehicles. I managed to talk to some drivers and crews at fuel stops and hear the stories of broken axels and running out of tires. Our camera jammed due to the sand it managed to swallow so our photos are limited on our Facebook album below:
Facebook Photos of The Road Trip
Driving in Latin America is often a challenge, and can be scary at times, but the rewards are spectacular and unusual landscapes, interesting people and places and often bizarre experiences that make for great travel stories. Try it by all means but read our advice below beforehand!
Driving in Latin America
Gary Sargent – Escaped to Latin America “Be Inspired by Travel”